Friday, Sept 21, 2018
On Tuesday we left Bayeux and took three trains to get to the town of Amboise. This medievel town sits along a massive escarpment with a heavily fortified 16th century castle on top. Amboise is a lovely little town with a Main Street that extends up in front of the castle and is lined with sidewalk cafes, restaurants and shops.
Arriving in Amboise, I (Jack) was suffering from a severe toothache. Miraculously, our hotel was able to save the day (the rest of the trip, actually) by getting me a dental appointment on very short notice. We were predpared to pay whatever it took to get the problem taken care of. But an exam with X-rays, was $23!!! With a Rx for an antibiotic, I’m good as new!
We spent Wednesday touring the Amboise Castle and Leonardo Da Vinci’s final home and resting place. Both were amazing.
The castle is built atop an escarpment overlooking the Loire River... definitely a defensible position. It was lovely inside and out, thanks largely to its simplicity and functionality.
Clos du Luc, located a short walk up that Main Street, is Leonardo’s home, studio, laboratory and burial place. In Leo’s later years, Francoise I, king of France, offered him this home plus a stipend for the rest of his life. Here he lived, worked and died. They have recreated his art studio and laboratory exactly as it was, and also display models of some of his inventions created here. It was moving to stand there and imagine that perhaps the greatest genius in all of history actually lived and worked in this room.
Yesterday we took an all-day tour of three nearby chateaus. Very cool, but by the third one we both felt we’d seen enough. We were also a little weary from our guide Pascal, who absolutely never quit talking. But he was well intentioned and even a little charming, so all was good.
Afterwards, we had drinks and dinner with a very nice couple we met on the tour, Garry and Renee from Folsom, California (near Sacramento). They are leaving today for Paris, but exchanged contact info and are planning to see them again.
So, we’ve arranged a taxi to the train station this afternoon and are headed to Bordeaux. Au Revoir!
Wednesday, September 19, 2018
Catching up - Bayeux to Amboise
Sept 19, 2018
I don’t know what happened, but my last two blog entries seem to have disappeared. So I will try to at least summarize what we’ve done and fill; in details later as necessary.
Mont Saint Michelle, Sept 16
Mont Saint Michelle is a memievel abbeybuilt on an island in the Atlantic Ocean, just off the coast of Southern Normandy. It is accessible by a modern causeway most of the time, but on occasional high tides it is completely isolated from the mainland. In ancient times, a much lower earthen causeway would be flooded with the daily high tides.
It is a gorgeous sight.
We took a full day tour by minibus for the 1.5 hour drive from Bayeux. Our driver/guide was a Dutchman who went by the name Boy. (In his off time he plays keyboards in a Dutch techno-hip hop band called King Bee.) We shared the ride with several other very nice tourists.
Mont Saint Michelle is an Abbey built on top of this giant rock in the sea. Over the years, due to its isolation, an entire village grew up on the rock below the Abbey. Today the village houses restaurants nd shops to serve the multitude of tourists who visit every day.
It is really an unbelievable place. (See photos)
Bayeux Tapestry, Sept 17
The Bayeux Tapestry is on of the key sights in Bayeux. It was created in the 11th century to chronicle the Normandy invasion of England for peasants who couldn’t read. This ancient “document” is 70 meters long and tells the saga of William the Bastard who became William the Conquerer.
We also visited the museum of the WWII Battle of Normandy, which again tells the story complete with photos and artifacts from all participating countries.
To cap off the day before dinner and packing, we went to the MAHB museum which contains artifacts ranging from Roman times up through the 18th century. I’m sure it was a wonderful museum, but we both felt that by that time at the end of our last day in Bayeux we were a little “museumed-out”.
Hotel Tardif: This incredible place we stayed in Bayeux is worthy of its own added note. Owned and operated by a young man named Anthony and a staff of four young women, this place was simply exquisite. Dating back to 1720 when it was the Bishop’s house, it has been completely modernized without losing a single bit of its historic charm. When you walk out the gate onto the little side street where it is situated, there is the Notre Dame cathedral, as site that inspired awe every single time we walked by it.
I don’t know what happened, but my last two blog entries seem to have disappeared. So I will try to at least summarize what we’ve done and fill; in details later as necessary.
Mont Saint Michelle, Sept 16
Mont Saint Michelle is a memievel abbeybuilt on an island in the Atlantic Ocean, just off the coast of Southern Normandy. It is accessible by a modern causeway most of the time, but on occasional high tides it is completely isolated from the mainland. In ancient times, a much lower earthen causeway would be flooded with the daily high tides.
It is a gorgeous sight.
We took a full day tour by minibus for the 1.5 hour drive from Bayeux. Our driver/guide was a Dutchman who went by the name Boy. (In his off time he plays keyboards in a Dutch techno-hip hop band called King Bee.) We shared the ride with several other very nice tourists.
Mont Saint Michelle is an Abbey built on top of this giant rock in the sea. Over the years, due to its isolation, an entire village grew up on the rock below the Abbey. Today the village houses restaurants nd shops to serve the multitude of tourists who visit every day.
It is really an unbelievable place. (See photos)
Bayeux Tapestry, Sept 17
The Bayeux Tapestry is on of the key sights in Bayeux. It was created in the 11th century to chronicle the Normandy invasion of England for peasants who couldn’t read. This ancient “document” is 70 meters long and tells the saga of William the Bastard who became William the Conquerer.
We also visited the museum of the WWII Battle of Normandy, which again tells the story complete with photos and artifacts from all participating countries.
To cap off the day before dinner and packing, we went to the MAHB museum which contains artifacts ranging from Roman times up through the 18th century. I’m sure it was a wonderful museum, but we both felt that by that time at the end of our last day in Bayeux we were a little “museumed-out”.
Hotel Tardif: This incredible place we stayed in Bayeux is worthy of its own added note. Owned and operated by a young man named Anthony and a staff of four young women, this place was simply exquisite. Dating back to 1720 when it was the Bishop’s house, it has been completely modernized without losing a single bit of its historic charm. When you walk out the gate onto the little side street where it is situated, there is the Notre Dame cathedral, as site that inspired awe every single time we walked by it.
Monday, September 17, 2018
Normandy Beaches
Sept 15
We took a full-day tour to some of the beaches and towns that were key to the Allied invasion of Normandy that on June 6, 1944, D-Day, ended World War II.
Our guide was a young Welsh man who has always been obsessed with WWII and Normandy in particular. He was a true historian who shared vivid details of the events leading up to the invasion as well as the invasion itself.
When I figure out how to get the photos from my camera into this blog I’ll write captions to tell the story. But, standing on Utah and Omaha beaches where so many American, English and Canadian young men lost their lives were solemn experiences that made one appreciate the price of freedom.
The other thing that was moving is just how much the people of this whole Normandy peninsula still appreciate what the Americans (nd other Allies) did to liberate France and the world from Nazi rule. Inside churches many of the stained glass windows that were blown out during the war by bombs and bullets have been recreated, but with paratroopers and D-Day messages along with the various religious images.
We took a full-day tour to some of the beaches and towns that were key to the Allied invasion of Normandy that on June 6, 1944, D-Day, ended World War II.
Our guide was a young Welsh man who has always been obsessed with WWII and Normandy in particular. He was a true historian who shared vivid details of the events leading up to the invasion as well as the invasion itself.
When I figure out how to get the photos from my camera into this blog I’ll write captions to tell the story. But, standing on Utah and Omaha beaches where so many American, English and Canadian young men lost their lives were solemn experiences that made one appreciate the price of freedom.
The other thing that was moving is just how much the people of this whole Normandy peninsula still appreciate what the Americans (nd other Allies) did to liberate France and the world from Nazi rule. Inside churches many of the stained glass windows that were blown out during the war by bombs and bullets have been recreated, but with paratroopers and D-Day messages along with the various religious images.
Bayeux, Normandy France
Friday, Sept 14
Alarm went off at 4:45 am, out the door at 5:45, caught a 7 am train to Bayeux. Traveling through the countryside it really is hard to believe what a beautiful country France actually is. And apparently they take great care to make their train routes beautiful. Every minute of the 2.5 hour ride was picturesque, fast, smooth and quiet. (The good old Amtrak between Portland and Seattle will never be the same.)
When the taxi dropped us in front of our hotel we were thrilled. Built in the 1700s as the home for the bishop of the church here, it was purchased by our host Anthony 15 years ago and he created Hotel Tardif. We were greeted in the lobby by an adorable young woman who spoke not a word of English but was as gracious and accommodating as she could have been. Anthony signed us in and stored our bags until the previous occupant of our room checked out.
We set out to explore.
What we first discovered just one block away is the Notre Dame du Bayeux, a cathedral even more beautiful and impressive that Notre Dame in Paris. Construction began in the tenth century and was completed in the 1800s. And it is not crowded by a busy city, nor is it swarming with camera toting tourists.
Views from the outside, during the day but especially at night, are simply breathtaking. No other way to put it. Inside it is beautiful, quiet and solemn, just what a house of worship should be.
We explored some of the main streets and plazas, had lunch, and returned to Hotel Tardif. Our room was perfect. 17th century on the outside, it is absolutely modern on the inside. And spacious. We even have a little kitchenette with espresso machine and excellent WiFi.
For dinner, we looked in Rick Steves guide to France and went to a place called Le Pommiers. We had a lovely dinner. It was wonderful. Beautiful and simple. Exceptional service. Fantastic dinners. Half-bottle of Bordeaux wine. 71 Euro.
We like Bayeux.
Alarm went off at 4:45 am, out the door at 5:45, caught a 7 am train to Bayeux. Traveling through the countryside it really is hard to believe what a beautiful country France actually is. And apparently they take great care to make their train routes beautiful. Every minute of the 2.5 hour ride was picturesque, fast, smooth and quiet. (The good old Amtrak between Portland and Seattle will never be the same.)
When the taxi dropped us in front of our hotel we were thrilled. Built in the 1700s as the home for the bishop of the church here, it was purchased by our host Anthony 15 years ago and he created Hotel Tardif. We were greeted in the lobby by an adorable young woman who spoke not a word of English but was as gracious and accommodating as she could have been. Anthony signed us in and stored our bags until the previous occupant of our room checked out.
We set out to explore.
What we first discovered just one block away is the Notre Dame du Bayeux, a cathedral even more beautiful and impressive that Notre Dame in Paris. Construction began in the tenth century and was completed in the 1800s. And it is not crowded by a busy city, nor is it swarming with camera toting tourists.
Views from the outside, during the day but especially at night, are simply breathtaking. No other way to put it. Inside it is beautiful, quiet and solemn, just what a house of worship should be.
We explored some of the main streets and plazas, had lunch, and returned to Hotel Tardif. Our room was perfect. 17th century on the outside, it is absolutely modern on the inside. And spacious. We even have a little kitchenette with espresso machine and excellent WiFi.
For dinner, we looked in Rick Steves guide to France and went to a place called Le Pommiers. We had a lovely dinner. It was wonderful. Beautiful and simple. Exceptional service. Fantastic dinners. Half-bottle of Bordeaux wine. 71 Euro.
We like Bayeux.
Sunday, September 16, 2018
Monet’s house and water lilies
Thursday, Sept 13
This afternoon we took a half-day tour to the home of Claude Monet and his gardens where he painted the famous Water Lilies and so much of his other work. Located in the hamlet of Giverny about 45 minutes outside Paris, the tour used one of those big luxury buses that we usually try to avoid. But we really enjoyed the. comfort and convenience of not dealing with taxis and trains and parking.
We entered through his Japanese garden which contains the pond and water lilies featured in so many of his paintings. Even Jack, who is not a gardener, was impressed by the sheer beauty of this place. It is so easy to see where Monet found his inspiration. He has a second garden that especially captivated Stacy and inspired her for our own home. Monet’s house was also lovely, filled with some of his own art collection.
We got back to Paris at about 6pm, which meant everyone had just gotten off work and the streets were packed. Even though we had to find dinner and pack to leave for Bayeux at the crack of dawn the next day, we couldn’t find a free taxi so ended up walking all the way back to our flat.
It was a great day and we thoroughly enjoyed every minute of our 9 days in Paris. We really did a lot, and are ready to slow down the pace a little. Tomorrow we have a 7 am train to the little town of Bayeux in Normandy.
This afternoon we took a half-day tour to the home of Claude Monet and his gardens where he painted the famous Water Lilies and so much of his other work. Located in the hamlet of Giverny about 45 minutes outside Paris, the tour used one of those big luxury buses that we usually try to avoid. But we really enjoyed the. comfort and convenience of not dealing with taxis and trains and parking.
We entered through his Japanese garden which contains the pond and water lilies featured in so many of his paintings. Even Jack, who is not a gardener, was impressed by the sheer beauty of this place. It is so easy to see where Monet found his inspiration. He has a second garden that especially captivated Stacy and inspired her for our own home. Monet’s house was also lovely, filled with some of his own art collection.
We got back to Paris at about 6pm, which meant everyone had just gotten off work and the streets were packed. Even though we had to find dinner and pack to leave for Bayeux at the crack of dawn the next day, we couldn’t find a free taxi so ended up walking all the way back to our flat.
It was a great day and we thoroughly enjoyed every minute of our 9 days in Paris. We really did a lot, and are ready to slow down the pace a little. Tomorrow we have a 7 am train to the little town of Bayeux in Normandy.
Wednesday, September 12, 2018
Picasso, Bastille and Pere Lachaise
Wednesday, Sept 12, 2018
Today was another day of walking the streets of Paris, punctuated by visits to cool places. (We’ve averaged about 5 miles a day, with the occasional cab ride.
We started by walking across the river through the high-rent residential neighborhood on the little Ile just west of Ile de la Cite, then through the Marias neighborhood in the 4th Arrondisiment, to the Musée Picasso. It was located in a very old hotel that was renovated and converted to a museum in the 1980s.
From there we went to Place du Voges, the first park in old Paris, and the Bastille monument which is not located at the site of the prison that it commemorates but instead in the middle of the busiest roundabout we’ve seen in Paris at the convergence of ten major streets. After lunch in a little cafe, we caught a taxi to Pere Lachhaise, the very old cemetery were many notable historical people are buried. Being shallow Americans, however, we went straight to the grave of Jim Morrison, lead singer for The Doors. But the real experience was just walking through this beautiful old cemetery. Stacy looked up when it was opened and we learned we had just seen the grave of a little girl on that day in 1804.
We took the long walk back to our flat, trudged up the four flights os stairs, and relaxed for a couple of hours. Then I went out and brought hope Thai food for dinner... a emporter as we French say. :)
Today was another day of walking the streets of Paris, punctuated by visits to cool places. (We’ve averaged about 5 miles a day, with the occasional cab ride.
We started by walking across the river through the high-rent residential neighborhood on the little Ile just west of Ile de la Cite, then through the Marias neighborhood in the 4th Arrondisiment, to the Musée Picasso. It was located in a very old hotel that was renovated and converted to a museum in the 1980s.
From there we went to Place du Voges, the first park in old Paris, and the Bastille monument which is not located at the site of the prison that it commemorates but instead in the middle of the busiest roundabout we’ve seen in Paris at the convergence of ten major streets. After lunch in a little cafe, we caught a taxi to Pere Lachhaise, the very old cemetery were many notable historical people are buried. Being shallow Americans, however, we went straight to the grave of Jim Morrison, lead singer for The Doors. But the real experience was just walking through this beautiful old cemetery. Stacy looked up when it was opened and we learned we had just seen the grave of a little girl on that day in 1804.
We took the long walk back to our flat, trudged up the four flights os stairs, and relaxed for a couple of hours. Then I went out and brought hope Thai food for dinner... a emporter as we French say. :)
D’Orsay, Rodin and Napoleon
Tuesday Sept 11, 2018
Today was my (Jack’s) favorite museum day so far.
The Cluny Museum of natural history and archaeology is just a couple of blocks from our apartment, so we started our day going there. But, oddly, it is closed on Tuesday. So we proceeded to walk the mile and a half or so to the Musée d’Orsay, which is a beautiful and old railroad station, converted in 1970 into a stunning new museum intended to bridge the gap between the Louvre and the National Modern Art Museum. What a beautiful and accessible museum. It had the most interesting art (to us) and it managed the crowds to make viewing easy and unhurried. We saw many examples of works by, most notably, the great impressionists.
Along the way, we passed a museum of the history of medicine, located in a Parisian medical school. We went into the building to check it out. Honestly, it felt like a scene from an old WWII movie. Old. Echoing. We climbed a few flights of stairs, followed signs, but there was a note on the door that it was closed until afternoon. We vowed to go back, but it looks like we will run out of time this trip.
After Musée d’Orsay we walked over to the Musée Rodin. I had accidentally seen his famous sculpture The Thinker looking over a garden wall from the top of a sightseeing bus 10 years ago in my only brief visit to Paris. I’d always wanted to come back. It was far better than expected. Honestly, I never realized just how much motion and emotion could b captured in marble, plaster or bronze. The man was a genius. Most notably, his Gates of Hell, a massive sculpture that he worked on until his death, portrayed Dante’s vision of the final layer into hell. (A copy of this and The Thinker had also been in the Musée D’Orsay.)
One of the advantages of staying in an apartment instead of a hotel is having the option not to have to eat out. So we stopped at the poissonerie and produce market right down the street and bought a gorgeous filet of swordfish (espadon) and enjoyed a delicious home-cooked dinner on the deck of our flat.
Today was my (Jack’s) favorite museum day so far.
The Cluny Museum of natural history and archaeology is just a couple of blocks from our apartment, so we started our day going there. But, oddly, it is closed on Tuesday. So we proceeded to walk the mile and a half or so to the Musée d’Orsay, which is a beautiful and old railroad station, converted in 1970 into a stunning new museum intended to bridge the gap between the Louvre and the National Modern Art Museum. What a beautiful and accessible museum. It had the most interesting art (to us) and it managed the crowds to make viewing easy and unhurried. We saw many examples of works by, most notably, the great impressionists.
Along the way, we passed a museum of the history of medicine, located in a Parisian medical school. We went into the building to check it out. Honestly, it felt like a scene from an old WWII movie. Old. Echoing. We climbed a few flights of stairs, followed signs, but there was a note on the door that it was closed until afternoon. We vowed to go back, but it looks like we will run out of time this trip.
After Musée d’Orsay we walked over to the Musée Rodin. I had accidentally seen his famous sculpture The Thinker looking over a garden wall from the top of a sightseeing bus 10 years ago in my only brief visit to Paris. I’d always wanted to come back. It was far better than expected. Honestly, I never realized just how much motion and emotion could b captured in marble, plaster or bronze. The man was a genius. Most notably, his Gates of Hell, a massive sculpture that he worked on until his death, portrayed Dante’s vision of the final layer into hell. (A copy of this and The Thinker had also been in the Musée D’Orsay.)
One of the advantages of staying in an apartment instead of a hotel is having the option not to have to eat out. So we stopped at the poissonerie and produce market right down the street and bought a gorgeous filet of swordfish (espadon) and enjoyed a delicious home-cooked dinner on the deck of our flat.
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