Friday, Sept 14
Alarm went off at 4:45 am, out the door at 5:45, caught a 7 am train to Bayeux. Traveling through the countryside it really is hard to believe what a beautiful country France actually is. And apparently they take great care to make their train routes beautiful. Every minute of the 2.5 hour ride was picturesque, fast, smooth and quiet. (The good old Amtrak between Portland and Seattle will never be the same.)
When the taxi dropped us in front of our hotel we were thrilled. Built in the 1700s as the home for the bishop of the church here, it was purchased by our host Anthony 15 years ago and he created Hotel Tardif. We were greeted in the lobby by an adorable young woman who spoke not a word of English but was as gracious and accommodating as she could have been. Anthony signed us in and stored our bags until the previous occupant of our room checked out.
We set out to explore.
What we first discovered just one block away is the Notre Dame du Bayeux, a cathedral even more beautiful and impressive that Notre Dame in Paris. Construction began in the tenth century and was completed in the 1800s. And it is not crowded by a busy city, nor is it swarming with camera toting tourists.
Views from the outside, during the day but especially at night, are simply breathtaking. No other way to put it. Inside it is beautiful, quiet and solemn, just what a house of worship should be.
We explored some of the main streets and plazas, had lunch, and returned to Hotel Tardif. Our room was perfect. 17th century on the outside, it is absolutely modern on the inside. And spacious. We even have a little kitchenette with espresso machine and excellent WiFi.
For dinner, we looked in Rick Steves guide to France and went to a place called Le Pommiers. We had a lovely dinner. It was wonderful. Beautiful and simple. Exceptional service. Fantastic dinners. Half-bottle of Bordeaux wine. 71 Euro.
We like Bayeux.
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