CANADA, EH?

They say that Canadians are just like normal American people... only boring. That has not been our perception since getting a little exposure to Canadian culture over the last couple of years (i.e., hockey). Yesterday, however, we drove across from Michigan into Ontario, stopping for the night near London. Tomorrow we motor on to Niagara Falls. Besides seeing the falls, there is a Buffalo Wings Festival just down the road in -- you guessed it -- Buffalo, NY. There is also an Erie Canal museum that we're looking forward to.

We only have one photo to share from our trip here, which I'll save for later. No, the photo was not of the spectacularly high Bluewater Bridge between Port Huron, MI and Sarnia, Ontario. You see, that bridge was so high and freaked me out so much that it never even occurred to me to take pictures looking down 25 stories feet onto the treetops and tiny cars below. I think we are lucky Stacy was driving at the time.

We are staying in a little campground called Trout Haven, which has a creek running through it and a private trout pond stocked by the owners. You can fish there for only $2. But if you catch anything, you pay market price for it: $4-something per pound. We're having spaghetti.

Stacy and I both spent much of our youth in Orange County, California (she was born there and I lived there in the1960s and 1970s). One of our memories was a burger restaurant called Bob's Big Boy. The one in Costa Mesa had a huge statue of the "Big Boy" outside. Far as we know, all the Bob's in the west closed down years ago. But, coming across the midwest we've been seeing Big Boy restaurants, featuring the little fat boy character.

Well, yesterday we had lunch at one, just for old times sake. I share with you... the Big Boy:

Now aren't you glad you kept reading!

Up North!

We started our day with a bike ride. This part of Michigan is blessed to have a  bike trail that is more than 70 miles long. We rode about 10 of them.  It winds through  beautiful forests, with Mullett Lake off to the right. The only bike hazards are the wild apples strewn along the road.

Sunrise over Cheboygan 

Jack on the bike trail

Our day is stormy, mixed with beautiful. Midwestern weather is a crap-shoot.

Mullett Lake with a storm blowing in

We drove across the UP (Upper Peninsula) to Saulte St. Marie, Michigan, directly across the St. Mary's River from Saulte St. Marie, Ontario, Canada (both of them pronounced "Soo Saint Marie").  We watched two (smallish) boats go through the "Soo Locks" between Lake Superior and Lake Michigan.

There is a 21 foot difference in lake level between Superior and Michigan. This used to be a cascading waterfall, which necessitated taking boats out of the water, and "portaging" them 1/2 mile before putting them back in the river. The locks solved that problem, and the first locks were built in the late 1700's by a French fur trapper. The modern-day locks are a bit more sophisticated. There are four locks, plus a hydro-electric plant, plus a part of the river they left untouched. It's pretty neat.

"Soo Locks" at Saulte St.Marie

A sort of smallish tour boat going through the locks

We still can't figure out why the Upper Peninsula of Michigan doesn't belong to Wisconsin. Look at a map.

Michigan...Kalamazoo to Cheboygan

We left Joliet on Wednesday morning, heading east on Hwy 30.  We have tried to stay off the major interstate highways, thinking it will let us see more of what we came to see…America.  This route took us through south Chicago, and northern Indiana. These areas used to be more vibrant than they are now. At least we hope so. It was kind of depressing.

We turned north through South Bend, Indiana. It is a pretty river town, and home to Notre Dame University.  We drove through the campus, which is urban, and “contained’, but really very pretty.

Notre Dame...Motto: Life, Sweetness, Hope (go figure)

Following Hwy 31 north, we stopped in Kalamazoo, Michigan, where we spent our 3^rd wedding anniversary. (As Jack joked, maybe next year we can spend it in Tustin)  We stayed at a county park campground, and were surprised at how beautiful it was (except for the requisite train tracks). It had a lovely swimming beach, hiking trails and fishing pond.

Marken Glen County Park, Kalamazoo, MI

The fishing and swimming lake

Kalamazoo neighbors Battle Creek, Michigan, home to Kellogg’s corn flakes.

Educational factoid of the day: The Kellogg’s were Adventists, and had 9 children. John went to medical school, funded by the church, and returned to Battle Creek to direct the Adventist health center there. He promoted the “radical” ideas of good nutrition, fresh air, exercise and hydrotherapy. People from all over the world came to his “sanitarium” for treatment. He built a HUGE medical facility in Battle Creek, which is still there, but is now a government building.

Dr. John was concerned that people with bad teeth could not eat whole grains, so he invented CORN FLAKES.  His younger brother, William, ran with this idea and the Kellogg’s breakfast cereal company was launched.

The Kellogg cereal factory is not open for public tours, but the Kellogg Discovery Center, and the  Adventist Historical Village is. We got a great tour, through the center from a nice man named John. Dr. John invented a large number of contraptions meant to enhance circulation, joint movement, and bowel regularity.  Brother William went on to make a fortune in breakfast cereals.

Dr John Harvey Kellogg, brother to the corn flakes king, William Kellogg

Another noteworthy thing about our Kalamazoo/Battle Creek stopover is that we got to witness a thunder/lightening storm, torrential downpour and flash flood…luckily all from the comfort of Nina’s Mexican Cantina.  Wow!! Weather!!

Now we are in Cheboygan, Michigan…right up at the “tip of the mitten”. And it is beautiful!!! Our campground is along the Cheboygan River, which runs into (maybe out of) Lake Huron. The water is clear, and shining, and there are a bunch of people out today enjoying their pontoon boats.

We took the ferry out to Mackinac Island (pronounced Mackinaw), which is home to a lovely harbor village and Fort Mackinac. The Fort was established by the British during the American Revolution to protect the British assets from the Americans. It’s been British, and French, then American, British again and right now it’s OURS.  It’s beautifully preserved and quite picturesque. 

Not our ferry, but it's close relative

The Mackinaw Bridge

View from Fort Mackinaw

A garden in Mackinac, MI, beautiful!!!

We are having such a great time!

Chicago... again!

We just keep extending our stay here. Saturday and Sunday we spent in Chicago. Yesterday was the obligatory maintenance day (hair cuts, oil change, pedicure, new jeans, grocery shopping, laundry, etc.).  And today...back to the City.

River walk area

We are getting really good at taking the Metra train in from Joliet.  It is 60-90 minutes, depending upon whether it is an express or not. The train cars are "double deckers" with seats upstairs that allow a great view of the terrain. We seem to have a chronic problem finding the station at the end of our day in the City, but somehow we have always made it back in time.

Today we went to the Chicago Art Institute.  First, I have to tell you about the immense bronze lions outside. If one is to climb up on the concrete pedestal, and one is to attempt to climb upon or mount the lion, the lion ROARS, and a lady's voice states, "Please stay off the lion, or the police will be summoned"

We kept hearing this recording while eating dinner across the street on Sunday. And, of course, Stacy HAD to go see if she could get the lion to roar.  She did, though no police were summoned (as far as we know).

The Art Institute has an entire wall of windows by Chagall.

It houses "American Gothic" by Wood. It has several paintings by Renoir, Degas, Manet...very nice collection. There were examples of Chicago architectural detail. And, very intriguing, a whole wing full of miniature rooms...anything from 17th Century French drawing rooms, to 1940's New Mexico dining rooms.

Miniature library... 1 inch = 1 foot...they are amazing

Miniature  French manor

After the Institute, we HAD to go up in a tall building -- a must do before leaving Chicago. We walked, and walked, and walked...and finally got to the John Hancock Building. We had lunch on the 95th floor...with an incredible view of the Lake Michigan shoreline, and the north part of Downtown Chicago.

From 95 floors up

From 95 floors up

We liked Chicago A LOT!  Tomorrow we take off for Michigan...

CHICAGO, CHICAGO!!!!

We are in Chicago. Well, the suburb of Joliet, which is a train ride away! We are staying in an "urban park". That can be read as yucky... although this park has a large lake, two swimming pools, paddle boats, etc., etc.  And it is crowded and dusty.  A big change from the beautiful open spaces we have gotten so used to.

Lake at our campground

Here is the dusty and crowded part...

Also, I should tell you that Joliet is home to the original Dairy Queen (now the site of a church)...and the old Joliet Prison, which is where the scene of Jake leaving jail in "The Blues Brothers" was filmed.

We hope you all appreciate these tidbits. We want this to be an educational experience for everyone.

So... Chicago.  We took the train in yesterday. It was a pleasant hour-long trip, even given the number of rabid Cubs fans who were on their way to a game. The weather was perfect. in the 80's and not sticky at all. We were amazed at the downtown area, the incredibly  diverse architecture, the parks, and the artwork spaced here and there. We took an "architectural boat cruise" along the river, which was very interesting and educational.

Architectural boat tour

Sears Tower (now called Willis Tower)

New architecture reflecting old...

We strolled through Millenium Park. Everywhere you turn, you find interesting art work. Like "the bean" (real name: Cloud Gate)

Inside the bean

And Crown Fountain, which had digital faces on huge water-covered monoliths...which periodically spit water at the crowds of eagerly waiting children.

Like Buckingham Fountain in Grant Park out by the Lake...

We walked out to Lake Michigan. The water was sparkling and blue, and we watched the sail boats, and motor yachts. Across the bay was the Museum of Science and Industry. We are going to go there today.

We also succumbed to the lure of the deep dish Italian pizza for which Chicago is famous. To be "healthy" we ordered a vegetarian pizza (mushrooms, spinach, roma tomatoes) which came with about FOURTEEN pounds of cheese.  It was very good. One per lifetime, though, is probably enough. (We might have another today!)

Chilton, Wisconsin...and the dreaded Escarpment!

Wow! Wisconsin is absolutely beautiful!

Our drive south from Patricia Lake was, once again, a bit awe inspiring. It's hard to believe that, after the extreme winters they have here, everything can blossom into such lush greenery. Vast acres of corn and soy beans. As we got further south, crops became interspersed with dairy farms.

We found a jewel of a town called Steven's Point, WI. We pulled off the highway to have lunch and discovered an incredible park. It was built in 1939, and had stone arched bridges over lazy canals, and a "winter sports" area with sledding hills (for winter), beautiful walking trails, covered picnic areas. It was a real find!

Picnic

Our home sweet home!

We've camped a short distance from Lake Winnebago (of camper fame) in a park where the spaces are three times the size of typical. Nice and spacious and private. Last night, the sunset over the lake was beautiful, and after dark the lights of Oshkosh (b'gosh!) reflected on the lake.

The "Niagara Escarpment" -- a sharp dolomite ledge that runs all the way from western New York to Michigan and Wisconsin -- literally runs right through our campground. Last night at dusk we walked through lush waist-high grass up the side of the escarpment to see the sun setting over the lake. Just another small surprise along way.

This morning we are in Appleton, WI to visit the Houdini Museum, then on into Green Bay. (Go, Cheese heads!)

Patricia Lake, Minocqua, Wisconsin

As we left the Duluth area and skirted the southern shore of Lake Superior, the shoreline changed from ragged cliffs to pebble beaches. We came across a wonderful Lake Superior interpretive center, which was SO well-done, and SO informative.

We stopped in Ashland, WI, which is right at the southern end of Chequamegon Bay off Lake Superior. We noticed a swim beach (kids were actually swimming in the cold lake!) with two life guards and a diving board at the end of a pier. One of the life guards told us that their summer ran from "the middle of June to the middle of August". She said this beach would have life guards until August 26, and then "everyone was on their own".

This is a decommissioned ore dock, now a public swim beach

We have stumbled into the Lakeland area of Wisconsin, and it is a little piece of Heaven. We all know that Minnesota is the Land of 10,000 Lakes, but Wisconsin has at least that many, seemingly all within 5 miles of our camp site. As I look through the trees surrounding Irv (our fifth wheel I-R-V, get it?), I catch glimpses of Patricia Lake. She is just a small lake, but has three or four piers or docks, a couple of swimming platforms, and several canoes, kayaks and row boats around the perimeter. It's lovely here.

Patricia Lake

We took a long walk on the Bearskin Trail today. It is one of many "Rails to Trails" across the USA. When rail lines become unused (or unusable), the Rails to Trails program obtains the land, removes the train tracks and recycles it into a biking and hiking trail. This particular trail is 18 miles long, through beautiful woods and wetlands, across trestles spanning lakes, past lovely homes...including the home of Ray Nitchke, Hall of Fame former middle linebacker for the Green Bay Packers.

A trestle on the Bearskin Trail across Lake Minocqua

Lake Minocqua

After watching a family (try to) catch fish, we strolled down the lake to an inviting pub with a deck overlooking Lake Minocqua. We sat outside, each with our beverage of choice, and OF COURSE, Jack immediately struck up a conversation with an older gentleman seated nearby. He is a retired professor of psychology, who splits his time between Chicago and the Lakelands, and has done so for the passed 60 years.

Soon, three young people (well, 30... that's younger, right?) also from Chicago joined us.  One was a cop, two worked in PR. Jack and I got some great hints as to what to see, where to go, and where to eat when we get to Chicago.

Jack on the deck of the Laughing Whale, Lake Minocqua, WI

Tomorrow we head south, towards Chicago, but will stop half way in the town of Chilton, along Lake Winebago. (Has anyone out there ever read Dr. Seuss's "Thidwick the Big Hearted Moose"? "On Lake Wine-bango, on the far northern shore, lived a large herd of moose, about 30 or more...")

Yes, we are in Paul Bunyan territory

Duluth, MN

Well, this trip has been full of surprises, and today was certainly one of them. Still licking our wounds over the loss of our dog and traveling partner, Mandy, we decided to take things easy today and stay put. We went into Duluth, which turned out to be a great decision.

To us west coasters, this whole "rust belt" is all new. Duluth, right at the tip of Lake Superior, is a major shipping port for the iron ore that has been mined near here for nearly 100 years. It's also a very beautiful place... in the summer anyway. So today we visited the Great Lakes Maritime Museum, then toured a 600-foot ore freighter and learned how the whole loading and unloading process for 14,000 tons of Taconite take place.

All-in-all, our time on the Great Lake Superior has been a real highlight of our trip. Tomorrow we head down into Wisconsin, en route to Chicago.

A Duluth landmark, this huge lift bridge lets a freighter through almost every hour.

The waterfront area

Deck of the freighter we toured 

Stacy at the helm